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The Villa Farnese in Caprarola

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The Villa Farnese in Caprarola
Judith Works
Low clouds and mist enveloped Rome. It was cold. Even worse, the city was in chaos with demonstrations by flag-waving groups loudly protesting against the construction of a high-speed rail line in the north of Italy. Stores were shuttered and transit was tied in knots. We, my daughter and two friends, wound our way through back streets to reach the Via Cassia which would lead us to our destination: the late Renaissance-era Villa Farnese, famed for its frescoes and gardens – and we hoped the luxury of peace, sun and a good lunch.
We headed north through the usual depressing detritus of suburbia, shopping malls and outlet stores until we reached the real countryside set with groves of filbert and olive trees along with a few vineyards. Turning this way and that we came to the small town of Caprarola, the site of the magnificent Villa Farnese built for Cardinal Alessandro Farnese between 1559 to 1575. The sun suddenly appeared to highlight a pentagon-shaped building rising five stories above a long flight of terraced steps set on a hill dominating the town.
The Farneses lived in style. Their Palazzo Farnese in Rome is now the location of the magnificently-decorated French Embassy near Campo di Fiori and the Villa Farnesina in Trastevere hosts a science academy and print collection. The villa we were visiting was a country house built by Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, grandson of Pope Paul III, over a partially constructed fortress begun by his ancestor in 1504.
After we had restorative cappuccini and cornetti the gigantic sundial on a south wall told us that it was time to start our tour of the magnificently frescoed interior, the 44-acre park and Renaissance garden crowning the hill.
We joined a group of Italians out on a sunny spring day trip like us. Room after frescoed room conveyed the power and the glory of the Farnese clan. One had depictions of the towns and castles owned by the family; another was called the Room of Farnese Deeds. Deeds were interesting but the Room of the World Map was the prize. The entire known world as it was in 1574 was depicted, some accurate and some wildly wrong.

I was in fresco heaven with every wall and ceiling covered in disporting gods and goddesses along with flora, fauna and the family. Too much to possibly take in at one go.
As we descended the magnificent spiral staircase to cross the moat into the gardens I noticed a woman staring at me intently. Curious, I stared back, wondering why she was so interested. Then she said in English: “I know you, you worked at the United Nations in the ‘80s. Your name is Judith.”
She was correct but how she remembered me I could not fathom. We chatted and then she turned back to her companions after saying, “How strange – this is the first time I have ever been to this villa.” Strange indeed.
We crossed the drawbridge into the warm sunshine, a special pleasure after the cold and damp interior where the fireplaces seemed too few and only hooks at the top of the walls remained to hang the long-gone tapestries used to help warm the enormous high-ceilinged rooms.
We strolled through a parterre garden made of box topiary and decorated with fountains and then uphill through a park of chestnut trees. Wild crocus carpeted the ground.
At the top we ascended the stairs flanked by a catena d’acqua, a water staircase to arrive at the casino – a summerhouse now belonging to the President of Italy.
The adjacent garden is lined by stone herms (Roman boundary markers) and ancient dark cypresses set against the blue sky.
The casino has terraces for al fresco dining which reminded us that it was lunch time. Our tour was complete. We asked about restaurants and were directed to Tratorria del Cimino. The menu was posted outside: carpaccio with funghi porcini, fried artichokes, homemade pastas and gnocchi, grilled and oven-roasted meats.
We opened the door and were welcomed by an agreeable host who brought bruschetta and local wine while we studied the menu. It was all tempting. I settled on the fettuccini followed by roast pork with rosemary potatoes. Biscotti and another cookie rich with local filberts for dessert arrived unbidden. Wine and coffee finished and our goal of peace, sun and good food met, it was time to head back to Rome. All was quiet, the demonstration was finished for the day and the sun was out. Our hotel terrace beckoned.
Life was routine until mid-life when the author decided to get a law degree. After graduation from Lewis & Clark Law School in Portland, Oregon a chance meeting led her to run away to the Circus (Maximus) – actually to the United Nations office next door – where she worked as an attorney in the HR department and entered the world of expat life in Rome. After four years she and her husband returned to the U.S. But they missed life in Italy with its wonderful food and wine, endless history and their numerous friends. The gods smiled and another opportunity came along. Six more years in Rome, again working for the UN, followed. The many happy and sometimes fraught experiences are the subject of her memoir, Coins in the Fountain, published as an e-book. She continues to travel, having fitted in over 100 countries in between many journeys to Italy where she always tosses a coin in the Trevi Fountain to ensure another visit. While her suitcase is cooling off she writes for on-line travel magazines, blogs, works on her novel set in Rome and volunteers for arts and literary organizations.
Book is on Amazon at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M2RLAI as well as Kobo, Nook and Smashwords
I tweet as @judithworks

Dan O’Brien
Editor, Empirical

Author: of The End of the World Playlist, Bitten, Cerulean Dreams, and The Journey
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“Be the change you want to see in this world.” -Mahatma Ghandi

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Source: http://thedanobrienproject.blogspot.com/2013/06/the-villa-farnese-in-caprarola.html



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