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D.I.Y. Prepper: Build This Cozy Cabin For Under $4,000

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Rays of early-morning sunlight gently peek through the windows, easing you awake. Looking down from the sleeping loft, you see everything you need: a pine table; a box piled with hardwood, split and ready for the woodstove; and a compact kitchen in the corner. This is the cabin dream. In this article, I’ll show you how to build a 14-by-20-foot cozy cabin featuring a sleeping loft over the porch for about $4,000. Who can resist it? My own cabin adventure began in 1986, when I built one as an inexpensive place to stay while constructing my house — that’s when I began learning what makes cabin design and construction successful. (I’ve always had a debt-free approach to developing my property.) The four years I lived in this cabin were a good time in my life — perhaps one of the best. I fondly recall the simplicity of waking each morning with the sole purpose of building my own house, working well into the evening. What follows is a cabin plan (I’ve included a full Cabin Assembly Diagram) with the hands-on know-how I wish I had 20 years ago. It won’t replace the need for basic carpentry skills, but it will alert you to the main challenges of framing a cabin and how to clear the most important hurdles. And even if you never build a cabin of your own, these basic instructions will be useful anytime you need to build a garage, shed or other outbuilding.

I believe in building for the long haul. When it comes to cabins (and everything else for that matter), this means working to the same standards of durability and beauty that you’d apply to a full-size house, even though the style, size and soul of a good cabin are entirely different. I’m sold on durability because it takes such small amounts of extra care, materials and money to yield a huge increase in longevity. Although a cabin certainly can be framed less stoutly than the design I’ll show you here, I’m convinced the wisest use of resources often means going beyond what’s merely good enough

Total cost: under $4,000

Floor assembly: $900

• two 20’ 6 x 6 rot-resistant beams (timber rim, length sides)
• two 14’ 6 x 6 rot-resistant beams (timber rim, width sides)
• 27 14’ 2 x 10 boards (blocking, joists and headers)
• nine 5/8” plywood tongue-and-groove subfloor panels

Walls and porch frame: $1,000

• 50 8’ 2 x 6 studs (walls)
• 15 14’ 2 x 6 boards (wall plates)
• five 8’ 6 x 6 rot-resistant wooden posts (porch)
• one 14’ 6 x 6 rot-resistant beam (porch)
• 21 7/16” oriented-strand board wall siding panels (wall planks)
• six 14’ 2 x 6 fascia boards (exterior wall trim)

Roof: $1,500

• 34 12’ 2 x 8 boards (rafters)
• two 12’ 2 x 10 boards (ridge board)
• 17 14’ 2 x 6 boards (cross ties)
• four 8’ 2 x 4 studs (rafter support)
• two 20’ 2 x 8 boards (blocking)
• 17 3/4” spruce plywood panels (roof planks)
• wooden shakes for 550 square feet of roof surface; roof liner, gutter apron

Hardware: $350

• six 12” spikes (foundation markers)
• 10 10” Sonotubes (pier forms)
• 10 5/8” threaded rod anchors (foundation)
• eight 1/2” x 6” carriage bolts (header anchors)
• 10 pounds of 3 1/2” ardox (spiral-shanked) nails (wall studs, floor joists)
• 10 pounds of 2 1/2” ardox nails (subfloor, roof planks)
• eight 1/2” x 8” lag bolts (post tops)

• 15 pounds of 1” roofing nails

Click here to read the full article

http://www.allselfsustained.com/build-cozy-cabin-4000/


 

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    Total 4 comments
    • Riding the Tilt A Wheel

      Thanks for your design, I’m not trying to knock it, just some pointers and FYI’s. I didn’t see any spacing dimensions for your wall studs, rafter or floor joists. OSB is not a good exterior wall finish, it’s not water proof. OSB is fine as a underlayment for the outside walls, I would use a Tryvic or roofing felt over the top of it and than a outside siding material over the top of the felt. Wood shakes are really a bad choice if you’re going to build this in the forest or woodland due to wild fire concerns. Check your local building codes for your area, where I live in the Northwest, the county requires a building permit for any building bigger than 120 sq ft. Also, less windows saves money! I would also think about a 24″ over hang on all 3 sides, this would include the gable end wall, less leakage problems, overhang not noted. I guess you left the interior walls unfinished, I know you’re trying to keep the cost down, but insulating and sheet rocking can save on firewood and may save your life if there’s a fire! Best wishes to anyone that’s looking at building something like this! It’s fun and a lot of fun to send some time in! :grin:

    • rb

      @Riding, this is slightly off-topic, but your statement about sheetrock and fire safety got me thinking. I am finishing the interior of a pre-fab wood framed shed, and desire to use sheet rock but am concerned about mildew/mold from humidity. Wood paneling is an alternative, but does it offer any fire safety?

      • Sean

        Just use Vermiculite wallboard or Greenboard, its used around Tub, Shower and Bathrooms before tiled, I have seen the Greenboard get Mold/Rot around the bottom area of Tub enclosures where water sits or runs off the shower walls

        The Vermiculite wallboard you can find at any Home Depot or Lowes and never seen Mold on it, don’t know if your planning on sheetrocking the Ceiling, Its done in Vermiculite wallboard for commerical Steamrooms in Healthclubs and Vermiculite fibers as the insulation in-between walls and Ceiling..but I would just use Greenboard overhead since Vermiculite wallboard is very heavy and could Kill Someone if not Secured Properly.

    • HotFish

      Pyramid roofs.. Do you know why all roofs are pointy and tar covered? Stupid way to build a home.

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