Kaimaki Ice Cream

The first time I had Kaimaki ice cream was back in the 90’s in Thessaloniki, Greece. This northern Greek city is second in population but tops when it comes to food. There are so many influences in the food that reveal the city’s past. Thessaloniki has celebrated just 100 years of being free from the Ottoman Yoke and the influence in the food can still be found.

As I recall, I was directed by family friend Taki (a senior citizen with a detailed memory of the city) telling me about Dondourma, this stretchy ice cream that could be found at a small ice cream shop located just up the street from Panagia Chalkeon (the shop isn’t there anymore).

Throughout most of Greece, this ice cream is called Kaimaki ice cream, a word rooted in the Turkish word, “Kaimak” and no doubt referring to the cream in this ice cream. If cream offers richness, then the sahlep powder offers the stretch to this unique and very tasty ice cream.

Sahlep powder is ground from wild orchids (cannot be cultivated) and therefore it can be pricey. I found real sahlep powder at the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul, in the Kapani Market in Thessaloniki and I bought mine in spice shop near the Varvakeios Market in Athens.

You may find sahlep at some Middle Easter or Turkish shops but it may be a diluted version mixed with sugars and used to make a hot beverage of the same name.

This dreamy, stretchy ice cream contains sugar and it’s perfumed with mastiha, a spice that comes from the resin of a specific tree that grows only on the southern tip of Chios. Mastiha is one Greece’s unique protected appellation products.

Many of you may not find sahlep powder but you can (and should make this recipe). Harold McGee adds that corn starch, guar gum or konjac can be used as substitutes.

I am using a packet of sahlep beverage powder that can be found at Middle Eastern/Turkish shops.

Kaimaki Ice Cream

1 can of sweet condensed milk

1/4 cup sahlep (sahlab) drink powder (use corn starch if you can’t find sahlep)

4 cups full fat cream

1/2 tsp. ground mastiha

1. Into the bowl of your stand mixer, add the condensed milk and sahlep powder attach the whisk and run for 5 minutes.
2. Add the cream, mastiha and whip until soft peaks form.
3. Empty into a container, place plastic wrap on top of the ice cream and place the lid on. Place in your freezer for minimum 5 hours to overnight.
4. Serve with a garnish of chopped pistachios or vissino (sour cherry) spoon sweet or on top of Karydopita.

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