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800 Foot High Deep-Sea Waves Reveal Mechanism For Global Ocean Mixing

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Waves breaking over sandy beaches are captured in countless tourist photos. But enormous waves breaking deep in the ocean are seldom seen, although they play a crucial role in long-term climate cycles.

A University of Washington study for the first time recorded such a wave breaking in a key bottleneck for circulation in the world’s largest ocean. The study was published online this month in the journalGeophysical Research Letters.

The deep ocean is thought of as dark, cold and still. While this is mostly true, huge waves form between layers of water of different density. These skyscraper-tall waves transport heat, energy, carbon and nutrients around the globe. Where and how they break is important for the planet’s climate.

“Climate models are really sensitive not only to how much turbulence there is in the deep ocean, but to where it is,” said lead author Matthew Alford, an oceanographer in the UW Applied Physics Laboratory. He led the expedition to the Samoan Passage, a narrow channel in the South Pacific Ocean that funnels water flowing from Antarctica.

“The primary importance of understanding deep-ocean turbulence is to get the climate models right on long timescales,” Alford said.

Dense water in Antarctica sinks to the deep Pacific, where it eventually surges through a 25-mile gap in the submarine landscape northeast of Samoa.

“Basically the entire South Pacific flow is blocked by this huge submarine ridge,” Alford said. “The amount of water that’s trying to get northward through this gap is just tremendous – 6 million cubic meters of water per second, or about 35 Amazon Rivers.”

In the 1990s, a major expedition measured these currents through the Samoan Passage. The scientists inferred that a lot of mixing must also happen there, but couldn’t measure it.

Tom Peacock, MIT | Wide Eye Productions

The deep-sea waves are 800 feet tall, as high as a skyscraper.

In the summer of 2012 the UW team embarked on a seven-week cruise to track the 800-foot-high waves that form atop the flow, 3 miles below the ocean’s surface. Their measurements show these giant waves do break, producing mixing 1,000 to 10,000 times that of the surrounding slow-moving water.

“Oceanographers used to talk about the so-called ‘dark mixing’ problem, where they knew that there should be a certain amount of turbulence in the deep ocean, and yet every time they made a measurement they observed a tenth of that,” Alford said. “We found there’s loads and loads of turbulence in the Samoan Passage, and detailed measurements show it’s due to breaking waves.”

It turns out layers of water flowing over two consecutive ridges form a lee wave, like those in air that passes over mountains. These waves become unstable and turbulent, and break. Thus the deepest water, the densest in the world, mixes with upper layers and disappears.

This mixing helps explain why dense, cold water doesn’t permanently pool at the bottom of the ocean and instead rises as part of a global conveyor-belt circulation pattern.

The Samoan Passage is important because it mixes so much water, but similar processes happen in other places, Alford said. Better knowledge of deep-ocean mixing could help simulate global currents and place instruments to track any changes.

On a lighter note: Could an intrepid surfer ride these killer deep-sea waves?

Credit:  Glenn Carter

Researchers lower an instrument off the back of the ship.

“It would be really boring,” admitted Alford, who is a surfer. “The waves can take an hour to break, and I think most surfers are not going to wait that long for one wave.”

In fact, even making the measurements was painstaking work. Instruments took 1.5 hours to lower to the seafloor, and the ship traveled at only a half knot, slower than a person walking, during the 30-hour casts. New technology let the scientists measure turbulence directly and make measurements from instruments lowered more than 3 miles off the side of the ship.

The researchers left instruments recording long-term measurements. The team will do another 40-day cruise in January to collect those instruments and map currents flowing through various gaps in the intricate channel.

Co-authors of the paper are James Girton, Gunnar Voet and John Mickett at the UW Applied Physics Lab; Glenn Carter at the University of Hawaii; and Jody Klymak at the University of Victoria. The research was funded by the National Science Foundation

Contacts and sources:
Hannah Hickey
University of Washington



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    Question   Razz  Sad   Evil  Exclaim  Smile  Redface  Biggrin  Surprised  Eek   Confused   Cool  LOL   Mad   Twisted  Rolleyes   Wink  Idea  Arrow  Neutral  Cry   Mr. Green

    Total 6 comments
    • JustAComment

      PBS ran a documentary called “Earth from Space” that went into ocean currents and cycles, as well as weather and the like, various global interactions, things like how dirt in African air fertilizes the Amazon, a simply amazing documentary, one of the best documentaries ever. If people like information such as in the article here, you’ll love “Earth from Space.”

      Psalms 8

      O LORD our Lord, how excellent is thy name in all the earth! who hast set thy glory above the heavens… When I consider thy heavens, the work of thy fingers, the moon and the stars, which thou hast ordained; What is man, that thou art mindful of him? and the son of man, that thou visitest him? Psalms 8:1, 3-4

    • Anonymous

      I think more of what BIN readers should be thinking about is that the application of these devices can be used off a coast to devastating effect…..

    • Anonymous

      freakin hate it when people throw around the climate word. Climate change is change that happens over thousands of years! not decades. The weather was warm, now it’s cooling down. Ice sheets are building back up. Still! Not climate.

      Climate happens over a thousand years while weather is sunspots and galactic waves(cloud seeding). The weather is uh changin.

    • Anonymous

      Temporary climate change can happen drastically, like a super volcano going off. Whatever happened 12,500 years ago(circa, give or take 1,000 or 2,000 years), that was drastic and caused by Tiamat/Marduk/something planetary. Ice age is a (partial) myth.

      Of course there will be a tiny ice age after a super volcano, at least.

    • Louis

      Thank you for an interesting post, Mr. Parrish. But with regard to speculation by some commentators regarding the potential for nightmarish disasters, please don’t discount what Bible prophecies say about what kind of future mankind can expect.

      During the tribulation, when the beast attempts to extend his satanic hegemony over all the earth, a number of horrific natural disaster will indeed take place, but only so that God’s will can be fulfilled.

      In the long term, Bible prophecies say humanity can look forward to an extended holy age of peace, bounty and prosperity, after which Christ will return, bring time to an end, and bestow immortality on the just.

    • all4one

      Agree with the “Earth from Space” doco at least.

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