Professional Surfer Kai Lenny on Routine, Fear and Big Waves
From Portugal’s Nazaré to Maui’s Jaws, big-wave surfing demands practice, skill, courage and camaraderie Unlike any other professional sport, surf competitions, especially big-wave surf competitions, require a literal perfect storm of conditions. Swell height and intervals, wind speed and direction, tidal shifts and weather—they all must align for a contest to be greenlit. Once the call goes out, the cadre of invitees and alternates from …
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