This couple quit the city to grow wasabi in Japan’s mountains

Fiery wasabi is key to Japanese cuisine, and Yuki and Chiyomi Fujii’s crop is highly prized among the country’s top chefs.

Story and photographs byJonny Bierman
National Geographic
March 27, 2024

Excerpt:

Two decades ago, while working corporate jobs in Shizuoka — two hours by train from Tokyo — Yuki and Chiyomi would often escape the city and get out into nature. It was during one of their weekend hiking trips to the mountainous Izu Peninsula that they stumbled upon some neglected terraces. Eager to breathe new life into this once-forgotten farm, they contacted the landowner, who agreed to a long-term lease. Gradually, over weekends, Chiyomi and Yuki restored the stone terraces, constructed bridges, pruned the wild foliage and reinvigorated an age-old tradition. Four years ago, they left their jobs and home in Shizuoka, investing everything in the wasabi farm.

“Wasabi is very delicate and difficult to cultivate,” says Yuki. “You need shade and consistent spring water. The plants don’t like fluctuations in temperature; it takes a very special spot to grow wasabi.” Wasabi Village’s secret is the constant supply of pure spring water from Mount Fuji, a short distance away to the north. The volcano acts as a giant water filter, purifying precipitation and releasing it across the region via hot and cold springs.

The couple harvest their crop by hand, and their organic wasabi, renowned for its purity and nutritional richness, is highly sought-after by some of Japan’s top restaurants. However, a pandemic-induced slump in orders encouraged Yuki and Chiyomi to rethink their farm, relaunching it to offer courses, tours and stays in four luxury caravans imported from the US, each with its own private hot tub. Restaurant sales have since recovered, but these additions to the business remain.

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