It’s a rough time to be a North Carolina barbecue fan.
McCall’s Bar-B-Que in Clayton, Jack Cobb BBQ and Son in Farmville and legendary Chapel Hill establishment Allen & Son Barbecue all closed down in 2018, and now, Bill Ellis Barbecue in Wilson is shutting its doors as well.
Old-school barbecue barons have periodically described authentic, wood-cooked North Carolina barbecue as a dying art. A generation of artisans is reaching retirement age.
The reality probably isn’t quite so dire. There’s a new generation of pitmasters coming in behind them — but it’s smaller, and today’s chopped pork faces a slew of city inspectors who often make it harder to get an authentic-style restaurant off the ground.
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