The Taiga Axe: A Russian Perspective On Axes

Most of what we know of axes in the the US and Europe has come from our own traditions. In fact, even those things that we think come from long standing traditional use, have only been fairly recent developments. As such, our perspective can be limited.

Recently I had a discussion about Eastern European axes on a forum. The issue was trying to figure out the use of a Bulgarian axe based on its features. The problem of course was that we were doing that by applying what we know of design features on American axes. The two don’t always coincide. Many of the axes we used to use back in Bulgaria were the way they were just because that was all that was available to us. Having the best features for the task wasn’t really a choice. So, to determine why an axe has particular features, we have to look at the traditions of that country, not just superimpose our own understanding based on our traditions.

Well, luckily, a reader emailed me with some information from a Russian source on axes. It is an article titled Taiga Axe (Таежный Tопор), written by  Igor Shipulin (Игорь Шипулин) in 1982 in issue No10 of the magazine Fishing and Hunting (Охота и Oхотничье Xозяйство). Here is the translated article, at least what I could do to iron out Google Translate with my limited knowledge. You can see the original republished at the St. Petersburg Hunter here.

Taiga Axe (Таежный Tопор) by Igor Shipulin (Игорь Шипулин)

The hunter in the forest can not do without reliable ax, which should be as versatile as possible. On sale there are many axes from large and medium-sized construction and carpentry to small hatchets, suitable for various household needs. But the taiga ax must have special properties that can make ordinary ax, remake it. Axe with steel soft and poorly hardened ax to be preferred to “dryish” steel. When chipping blade easily eliminate this disadvantage steeper sharpening. Form of sharpening to be parabolic, but shaving and straight line (Fig. 1). Axe with the sharpening is not jammed in the wood, chopping wood is good, less blunts. With sufficient sharpness of the blade is perfectly suited for carpentry.

Much of the understanding of rationality give the form of old Russian axes and hatchets of lumberjacks Carpathians, North America, in which the upper edge of the blade never forms an angle greater than 90 ° with the axis ax. All axes placed on the market have a wide blade and a protruding upper edge (Fig. 2). The shaded part sharply reduces the efficiency of the ax, as the moment of impact, this side tends to straighten the ax, making it unnecessary vibration, and thereby cushions the blow. To address this shortcoming, the shaded part is removed. The easiest way to do this by drilling along the line cut several contiguous holes and remove the red-hot part of the abrasive.

Direct ax blade should be changed to a convex (Fig. 3), permitting tempering blade width.Straight edge is only for carpentry, and when a chopping blade, then, simultaneously touching the entire edge and striking a tree at a right angle, with less penetrating ability. Each point of the convex edge enters into the timber at an acute angle (Fig. 3), there is a cutting effect, whereby the penetrating power of the blades increases rapidly. Although the weight after processing ax decrease, increase its efficiency. The author proposes two options axes (see. Fig. 4 and photo).One of them – a lightweight, designed for running hunts small trips, as well as to commercial hunting in the presence of a saw. The total weight of the ax – 800-1000 g (28-35 oz), the length of the ax – 40-60 cm (16-24 in). The other – a heavy, hunting and fishing for long journeys, during which the necessary to carry out significant work. Its weight – 1000-1400 g (35-49 oz), the length of the ax – 55-65 cm (22-26 in). The choice of the length of the ax by the quality of  the wood, growth and strength of the hunter.

Having prepared the ax, you can start making ax handles. It should be thin. The smaller the weight relative to the weight of the ax, the more punch.Ax should be flexible: rigid ax “dry” hand. In the section, it has an egg, but a flattened shape with a sharp leading and trailing edges rounded.  It is best to produce an ax handle from the butt of ash, maple, elm. You can use fine-grained and cross-grained birch. The most suitable thickness of the workpiece butt ax handles – 35-40 cm. The crude butt should be split, then dry with sealed ends. Ax handle with a longitudinal arrangement of layers (Fig. 5) stronger. Before mounting ax ax find the center of gravity (Fig. 6). Normally this point (C) located at the bottom eyelets. Then, the center line ax AB, passing through the middle of obushka and top edge of the blade. This line – a tangent on which the ax will move at impact. If you put the blade point in the center line perpendicular to the plane AB, the end of the ax will have to touch this plane at C. Held ax middle line (OL), the point P is on the line and away from the plane NE 3.5-4 cm. Cutting ax is clear from Fig. 5, where the shaded portion of the workpiece should be cut. The distance from the lower edge of the eye (point A) to the point of maximum bending ax (point A) is 10-11 cm. The point about hand holding an ax during a carpentry. At this point the circle ax – 12-13 cm, and the thinnest place at the end of the ax – 9-10 cm. Finally customize the thickness of a hand.

Ax ends locking arm bulge in the form of “fungus” (clearly visible in the photo). This ax is indispensable in the cold and rain when in the hands of the gloves or mittens. “Fungus” allows you to relax when working hands. Strength and Accuracy “relaxed” does not compare with ax blows of the ax, which accounts held strong, afraid to release him from his hands. On the blank under the “fungus” in advance provides thickening; It is processed in the last instance, to exclude chipped at the nozzle of an ax.  Getting to the nozzle, it is necessary to mark the workpiece.Adjusting ax should constantly check the angle of the landing by applying the ax to the plane (Fig. 6 is the line CB). The ax-adapted by two-thirds the depth of lugs at the same depth propyl done under the wedge (fig. 6) whereupon finally customize seat. Before clogging wedge ax with added ax useful to dry for two to three days. Immediately after trimming (or after drying) ax removed from the ax, drove them to part liberally smeared with glue BF-2 (probably epoxy is suitable better, though, I repeat, I do not Proponents of this – D.Zh.) and the ax finally skewer.To advance the wedge hardwood (ash, maple, elm, apple, pear) and glue is applied to the wedge and hammer. To wedge broke down when driving, it makes short. For complete drying of the adhesive is necessary to dry the ax during the day on the battery or the stove. Finally ax handle on the hand, skin and impregnated with linseed oil or linseed oil.  Ready ax is sharpened. A lot of time and effort will save up the ax if the blade is always sharpened. It is useful to carry this cut to size fanerku breast pocket, pasted on both sides of waterproof cloth – coarse and micrometer. Fanerki This is enough for a whole season if the ax will not require resharpening serious.

I apologize for the poor translation, but my Russian is almost non-existent and Google hasn’t been much more help. If someone has a cleaner translation, please let me know.

From what I understand, the author of this 1982 article is trying to provide guidelines for a good multi purpose axe for the taiga. The problem for the author is that at the time axes in Russia, both manufactured locally and imported were what we would call carpentry axes. That was not because that was their intended design and purpose, but was rather the result of scarcity and a number of historical circumstances which made this the dominant pattern for a wide range of uses. That was also my experience through 1995 when I came to the US. The author understands that these axes are used as multi purpose tools, but does not believe they are well suited for the task. The article should be viewed in the context of those available axes. Here is a good example of such an axe pattern, which has been very common in Eastern Europe and used for everything from felling, to splitting, to carving:

The author more or less provides a tutorial on how to take an axe that these days in the US we would call a carpenter’s/carving axe and turn it into a multi purpose axe. He argues for the removal of any part of the blade that protrudes above a 90 degree angle above the handle. He also states that the blade should be curved rather than straight. See figures 2 and 3. The shades sections in those diagrams show the metal that should be removed.

The author recommends that the handle be carved from dry ash, maple, or elm. Those are much more prevalent woods in the area than the hickory to which we are accustomed. Figure 5 shows how the extract good grain handles from a large piece of wood.   

Two sizes are recommended. When used together with a saw, or for shorter trips, the article recommends an axe that is about 16-24 inches long, with a head weighing 28-35 oz. Just for comparison purposes, that would be somewhere between a GB Small Forest Axe, and a GB Scandinavian Forest Axe. For longer trips, the author recommends an axe with a handle between 22-26 inches with a head weighing 35-49 oz. For comparison, that would range from a GB Scandinavian Forest Axe to a short handle full size axe.

Anyway, I just wanted to share with you this article as it takes a slightly different perspective on axes. Since the article was written, I think there has been a lot of effort put in by modern axe manufactures to produce all purpose axes, which in many ways resemble the ones described here back in 1982. If you wish to read more articles on the subject, just Google “Таежный Tопор”. For some good examples of people following the advise in the article and modifying similar axes, check out the post here, as well as the comments.