The “Almost” EMP Proof Vehicle
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Whistler Blowers, Insiders
Early diesels(some 90′s models and before)
don’t need electricity-
they are totally mechanical.
All you need to do is replace the electric shutdown system with a manual pull valve.
Lots of old tractors already shut down that way.
I had an ’86 Mack truck that was pure mechanical with a pull-cable shutoff valve on the dash,
factory.
Some of these have compressed air-start systems instead of electric starters.
They start from a compressed air tank instead of batteries.
Air-starts can be problematic but not starting at all is usually worse….
I drove a few Cummins-powered rigs that had a little screw dial valve in the injector pump.
If the alternator failed,
you could screw that valve in to manually over-ride the electric shutdown system.
Anyway,
the first 12valve mechanical Cummins Dodges can be easily made to run without electricity.
Get a manual and you can pull-start it,
if necessary.
Even if you do have a running vehicle after an EMP it will probably be of very limited use, because fuel is going to be almost impossible to find, and once what you have stockpiled (if you did so) runs out, it’s not going to run anyway.
Diesel power is the ONLY way to plan for ‘post-EMP’. Diesel stores for up to 100-years (gasoline has the approximate shelf-life of orange juice). Diesel can be a ‘one-fuel’ solution for your home, where gasoline cannot. Diesel vehicles are more ‘heavy-duty’ and taken care of, generally out-last their gasoline counterparts. Diesel engines can often easily get 500,000 to 750,000 miles between total overhauls. Gasoline is doing lucky to get 125,000 miles in most cases.
That said, most diesels built and released before 1980 are safe to buy; and the Dodge Cummins small truck motors were non-electronic the first 3-years they were produced (up until 1992).
The two parts you MUST buy spares of, and shield in a ‘Farad Cage’ (to protect against EMP) is the alternator and the starter. Your only other alternative is to completely disassemble them to rebuild when you need them later. EMP will cause starters to ‘brush-weld’ to the armature, and possibly the alternators as well, depending on how they are built. EMP will also fry the starter solenoid (normally comes with the starter if bought new) and the voltage regulator (if internal of the alternator). If an old truck with a firewall mounted voltage regulator, you will want a spare of these also.
Overall, put back $500 in electrical back-ups, disassembled if possible (to not only reduce your Farad Box size, but to also make repair vs total replacement easier), and forget them. Yes, you will lose your radio, but you will still have a functioning vehicle that you can store long-term fuel for without an issue – and you will still find fuel long from now in big trucks and old farm equipment.
Now, about those home power generators, water pumps, refrigerator compressors, freezer compressors, clocks, medical equipment, etc. – There is a simple answer for some of this.
Go to the ‘Big Box’ hardware stores and look at buying a ‘JOBOX’. They are all-steel, on rollers, and resemble big yellow or orange dumpsters. From here, all you need to do is build a metal cage structure inside, and put your sensitive electronics in it. A sealed Jobox will take a tremendous EMP hit.
An EMP proof vehicle is a bicycle………..
