Alpine Butterfly Knot
The Alpine Butterfly Knot is primarily used to create an attachment point to the middle of a climbing rope in alpine or glaciated terrain.
However, for rock climbing the alpine butterfly knot is also great for isolating a bad section of rope and using the rope for the anchor.
The reason why an Alpine Butterfly is a good choice for the middle of the rope is that once it’s tied, the knot can be loaded in any direction. This makes it the perfect choice for roping up several people on one climbing rope—for crossing glaciers or other low-angle terrain that might be easy but where you still want security.
To clip into a butterfly knot it’s best practice to use a triple action carabineer designed to protect against cross loading like the Sterling Falcon Talon. Clip the bite of the butterfly knot to your belay loop.
As with any knot, it’s important that you can recognize a correctly tied knot. Be sure to dress it by pulling both strands tightly.
The simplest way to tie the Alpine Butterfly is the hand-wrap method. The advantages are:
- Easy to tie while wearing gloves
- You’ll consistently tie it correctly
- Easy to untie after it’s been weighted
Check out this video demonstration of the Alpine Butterfly Hand-Wrap Method, watch it and then practice until you commit it to muscle memory. Remember, perfect practice makes perfect.
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