Tools for Guns: Files Part 1

Tools for Guns: Files Part 1

In the “Tools for Guns” series of articles we will talk about specific tools that can be used for gunsmithing.  It will range from small to big, expensive to inexpensive; specialty and mainstream.

In this specific article we are talking about metal files; tools for guns, used for removing metal by hand and with the manual input of the user. We will also be talking about files for use on wood and plastics. THIS IS NOT an article on technique, it is one about tool choices and ideas for tools to consider. Other articles will address techniques with specific tools.

There will be MANY articles in this series and they will be somewhat redundant at times, with the goal to help our readers understand the use of different tools and how to assemble the proper and minimum tools for guns.

Our other gunsmithing specific articles are listed at the bottom of this article to help you find relevant information. As the list grows we will highlight the past articles on each new article in the series.

We invite you also to read the Ask the gunsmith Post and the Glossary of Terms Post stickied at the front page, and listed under the gunsmithing tab.

In general, the gunsmith is about as reliant on their tools as they are on their knowledge and understanding of guns, methodologies and ballistics, among other things.  The file is a tool that has been around as long as iron has, and in reality, similar tools were constructed of Bronze, and before that, rock and bone.  It is at its core a simplistic and efficient tool, with a specific purpose and a very easy to understand user manual.

As a first and final personal note about files:

*ALWAYS assume that you MUST go slowly; measure twice and cut once. Do not ever rely on your ability to put metal back onto a gun, a part or any other piece you can take metal (or other materials off of). You will need to always go a bit at a time and rely on many reassembling to determine how much more is necessary.  Use marking dyes or even a felt tip pen to see where high spots exist; use levels, measuring tools and parallel stock to determine your adequate and proper use of the file.  It is vastly more difficult to rebuild material than it is to shape it, so plan accordingly.

Tools for guns are varied and require knowledge for proper use; the file, perhaps one of the most used aside from basic disassembly tools like proprietary tools and screwdrivers.

An important reminder for those using a file: find a handle.  The tang of a file is sharp, strong and very easily pushed into your palm, wrist or other hand if not perfectly utilized.  A handle can be had on the cheap at places like Harbor Freight Tools.  Sears, Home Depot and a ton of other hardware or multipurpose home stores that carry hand tools will have handles available.  The most I have ever paid for a handle was an incredibly technical handle and it cost maybe $25; most handles are under $5.

You will want three sets of files:

• Tiny files, with shaped profiles
• Flat broad Machinist files
• Wood/non-metal files (these will be covered in part two of this article set)
• Additionally you may consider a half round wood rasp
• You will want an incredibly large single flat file with a fine tooth single cut that can be used as a draw file (in fact it’s called a draw file in many cases)

There are distinct uses for all of these files, and each will play a big role in your shaping needs in the shop.

The tiny files, which should be primarily double cut fine cut files, not the diamond coated files.  The diamond files are for specialty work and actually don’t work as well as the standard hardened tooth cutting files.  You CAN buy the diamond files as a secondary set, but don’t rely on them for real work unless you are working on things like carbide tooling or very fine areas where you can control your work perfectly.  There are a few reasons why the diamond files are inferior:

1. Often times they are sold as a specialty tool, but made with bad quality control, or bad materials, and do not live up to the hype
2. The construction is often cheap, including nickel that will separate from the diamond particles or the files themselves
3. The diamond grit/particles are too closely spaced and not deep enough to allow for proper natural “unloading” of removed material, causing burning on soft materials and gouging on hard or soft materials in many cases.

These types of files are often called “needle files”.

Opt for a high quality set of small files like the one listed here, or a comparable alternative, OR prepare to buy several sets over the lifetime of your shop.

Look at a set of miniature QUALITY NICHOLSON files HERE.

Look at a set of very CHEAP miniature files HERE.

Either set will work for a while, but the Nicholson’s are what I, and many other gunsmiths use, as they have the best “unloading properties and the best quality control for tooth spacing and over fineness of cut.

*Glossary note: “Unloading” is a term used to describe the dumping of the removed material (i.e. metal shavings or wood particles) form the file; alternately, the more popular term: “Loading” is used to describe how much a file has a tendency to cake up with material or collect material in the uniform cutting teeth of the file. Less loading will invariably lead to a more precise action with a file, and a better smother, more accurate finished product, because the material will not gouge or inhibit proper cutting.

Flat broad machinist files are the bulk of what you will use for metal removal, including deburring, removing edges and flattening internal parts prior to stone usage. You want to have good sized files, as, in general, the larger the file is, the better it (while still being comfortable) will be able to yield more precise and slow movements, promoting better results.

Machinist files are those that are made for leveling and smooth cutting, typically for deburring, knocking off edges, or relieving gouges. Specifically, as with almost ALL files, these tools for guns, are made for the flats, not the rounds.

HERE is a good file set for the bulk of your file work. 

At times you may need a medium sized file, and in general, you almost always want to buy the finest reasonable cut, and the highest quality file for ONE-OFF purchases. I recommend looking for a file with a good name, a clean single cut and a noticeably medium size.

Look at a good single MEDIUM FILE HERE.

HERE is another medium file alternative.

A large flat file is needed (A draw File) for smoothing out large flats to avoid dips and ripples in your platform.  It is used by “drawing” it over the piece one way and slowly with the weight of the tool being the only pressure exerted on the piece of material.  This type of file is used often in sight plane work, slide flattening and fitting work.  They are (or should always be) single cut, with a fine cut and heavy.  You should secure the piece you are working on with clamps, vises or blocks while working to maintain the integrity of the work.

HERE is a modified Draw File, usable for most endeavors by the home or small shop gunsmith. 

It is important to understand that this particular article is about tools, not techniques; we WILL cover those topics later. File work can ruin a firearm, so it is important that your technique is good and your mindset and planning is solid.

We will cover softer material files in part two of this article.

Some final thoughts about metal files:

• Use single cut files where possible to avoid overdoing the cutting action and to allow you to cut softer metals like brass and aluminum
• Use handles, safety measures and controlled movement to avoid concerns
• Clean the files often with a file card (a wire brush will work as well)
• Wax your files where applicable
• Use material specific files to avoid concerns
• Don’t use files as a pry bar, hammer or leverage device, they are brittle and can shatter causing injury.

In part two of this particular “tools for guns” article on Files, you can find out more about wood files.  In future tools for guns articles we will cover other cutting tools and shaping tools, as well as stones, abrasives and sanding instruments.

BELOW IS A LIST OF THE LINKS ASSOCIATED WITH THE TOOLS FOR GUNS COVERED IN THIS ARTICLE.

NICHOLSON NEEDLE FILES

CHEAP NEEDLE FILES

MEDIUM FILES

MACHINIST FILE SET

MODIFIED DRAW FILE

There are hundreds of options for tools for guns, including the more expensive or higher quality files offered at Brownell’s, in most cases remember that the niche setting does not necessarily denote that the items in the Brownell’s catalog are more well suited as tools for guns than those listed above.  I use both varieties at times.

Read other Gunsmithing articles by clicking on these links:

Part 1 Introduction to Gunsmithing

Part 2 Introduction to Gunsmithing

Read more at NetGunsmith.com